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OK,
lets talk about our old friend/mortal enemy, the HydraMatic. First off a
bit of history on this complex lump of iron. Introduced after very
exhaustive testing by GM in 1941 it saw service in everything from
Cadillacs to Sherman tanks (same thing!) and in its day was regarded as
being pretty well bullet proof. After WWII Rolls Royce knew that the
future was in America and that they had to offer a GOOD automatic
transmission to compete for sales. GM had spent HUGE money developing the
HydraMatic and was using it with great success in the Cadillac, Oldsmobile
and Pontiac ranges of cars. R/R had a great rapport with GM but nowhere
near the kind of budget to develop anything that was even close to the
HydraMatic and so made a deal to use it under license from GM. The added
bonus was that mechanics across America were familiar with the thing, all
except that big whirlygig brake booster thingey hanging off the side!
Rolls performed a lot of modifications to make it work with the six
cylinder engine and then later the V8, and NO they will not interchange
completely no matter what anyone tells you.
We have seen some terrible things done
to the much maligned HydraMatic, including one that a young Miss Schworer
from Cincinnati brought to us that had previously been taken apart by
Attila the Hun using a variety of sledge hammers when he was good and
drunk!!! When customers tell us (once a month on average) that they have
had the HydraMatic worked on but its either not right or actually worse we
ask one simple question, "How old was the guy working on it?
" Not the shop owner but the guy WORKING on it. Transmission
shops will promise you the sun moon and stars but if the guy working on it
is less than 50 years old I seriously doubt if it will be right when he is
done for three reasons. One. The HydraMatic was replaced in the early
`60`s and you need someone who has a LOT of experience with them, the kind
of experience you get working on them every week like when LOTS of cars
that are driven every day are still using them. Two. In the early `60`s
the whole of the American auto industry switched to vacuum governed
shifting. The HydraMatic is a mechanical shift transmission, that means it
shifts dependant upon throttle position and load. If you are a mechanic,
sorry, technician, brought up on a diet of vacuum and now electric and
electronic shift transmissions you will have a hard time even
understanding the basic PRINCIPALS that make the HydraMatic work. Like an
earth surgeon working on an alien from the X-Files and saying "well
he sure did look pretty familiar, two arms, two legs, a head ect but when
I opened him up it was all very different in there! Still I`ve done the
best I can and closed him up and we will just have to hope he`s OK".
Three. Special Tools. Ah!!! The Special Tools! These
tools have not been readily available for over thirty years. Thatıs
right, thirty years! If you don`t have them, well.. Enough said.
We will rebuild your R Type,
Silver Cloud, Phantom V or early RHD Silver Shadow HydraMatic for $1450
using all new drive clutches, seals, bearings gaskets etc. in ten to
fourteen days. If it needs any HARD parts such as the front pump, cone
clutch housing, clutch drum etc. we will quote you upon inspection, in
writing. Once a HydraMatic is rebuilt and set up correctly you should get
100,000 miles out of it with nothing more than routine service. Here`s a
few tips to make your HydraMatic last and give good service. Do not let it
sit for months without being used, drive it or at least run the car so the
fluid is being pumped around and the seals are being lubricated. THE
most common problem with Hydramatics is seal failure because they have
dried out. When you park the car pull the handbrake on, put your foot on
the brake pedal, put it in reverse and then shut the motor off. Change
your tranny fluid once a year, drop the oil pan and clean the mesh
filter. Its cheap insurance. Don`t forget that R/R were thoughtful enough
to put a drain plug in the torus also. Bring the 7/16 brass drain plug
around to the six o`clock position and place at least a ten quart drain
pan under it and let it drain. DO NOT over tighten the drain plug when you
put it back in, brass strips easily. If a band adjustment is deemed
necessary drop the pan, measure the distance to the band stop FIRST
and then make the adjustment. NEVER do it by eye and NEVER over adjust, it
will self destruct if you do! Road test for at least 50 miles and
re-adjust if necessary which will mean draining the fluid and dropping the
pan again. As with most things Rolls Royce itıs the two P`s. Painful but
Precise. THE golden rule is the simplest one. If the unit starts to act up
in any way shape or form attend to it right away. IT WILL ONLY GET
WORSE!!!
As for the Turbo
Hydramatic that came with all the LHD Shadow series cars, Spirits, Spurs
etc. there is not a whole lot to say. They are pretty well nuclear bomb
proof. Thats right, the Feds actually exploded a nuclear device IN a Turbo
HydraMatic, then bolted it into a Cadillac and drove it around the US five
times with only three quarts of fluid in it! Point is that they are so
good, so dependable that you kind of forget they are there. If yours goes
bad we will rebuild it for $1200 and we usually have some on the shelf
ready to go.
We will rebuild your
MKVI, Wraith etc. four speed manual transmission for. Well to be honest it
really depends on what's wrong with it. Most often the ailment is the
first motion shaft, or should I say the gears that are machined onto it.
Most drivers under 40 years old do not know how to "double
de-clutch" when going down through the gears. You have to depress the
clutch pedal and slip into neutral, rev the engine a little to match
engine and transmission speed and then gently slide into the lower gear.
Lots of folks just OEdogı it into the lower gear and wonder why it makes
this terrible graunching noise. The noise is all the gear teeth trying to
destroy each other because they are not aligned and the idiot at the helm
is trying like mad to OEforceı them into alignment by pushing like Samson
on the gear lever and whistling a merry tune while trying not to make eye
contact with other motorists and pedestrians. Other problems are selector
fork wear, ovalation of the bearing housings in the aluminum case, cracks
in the case, bearing failure etc.. Doesn`t sound to pretty does`s it? Well
it can all be fixed and we will be happy to quote you upon inspection. In
writing. We also have excellent access to pre-war manual transmissions and
parts by the way. Happy motoring.
Please contact us
for more information about our transmission services.
Thanks for your interest in restoration services Rolls-Royce and Bentley
automobiles from
Hyperion.
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